Quoting: M@GOid

Quoting: Lofty

Quoting: M@GOidI decided to jump out of this game of having a top PC, to play AAA games at max settings a while ago. Now what I want is a efficient machine that runs cool on stock coolers.

Things started to became too repetitive (again) a decade ago, with most big-name games recycling the same ideas with more beautiful graphics. For example, I didn't finished the last 2 Tomb Riders. Felt like I was playing a DLC of the first game. Call of Duty fell off my radar after the first Black Ops. I'm not a competitive player (hate cheaters and annoying looser kids), so their emphasis on multiplayer did nothing for me.

Indie games at last try something new, since in a ocean of them, is do something different or die. And when they commit the same sin of recycling old gameplay like big studios do, I didn't need a powerful PC to play them nor do I need to pay full price plus a kidney in cash-grab schemes.

If I feel the itch to play AAA games, I still had a couple dozen from few years ago, that play very nice in my current "poor gamer" PC.

Pretty much the same here.
I have my PC spec'd good enough to play older AAA titles like Batman Arkham city, LOTR @ full settings 1440p (60hz is fine for me for these titles). The only issue is that even my Ryzen CPU (65w TDP + max undervolt) + Nvidia GPU is not efficient enough (add in some fans and primitive RGB). PC's for everything outside of gaming just aren't efficient enough, were talking 80w + just to stream video content, browse the web, basic image editing etc.. when a sub 10w mini pc can do this just fine. I have seen 95w when watching video content on my dual monitor setup and that's all im doing at the time.

One good thing about the last gen Ryzen though, is that they are quiet efficient at the lower end if you just want indie gaming. Something like a 5600g running integrated vega graphics is good enough. You can build a good all rounder for not much money. I hope there are equally efficient RDNA2 / 3 APU's in future.

I was testing my other machine with the 5600g recently and playing Stardew valley the entire PC was using less than 30W (21w at one point) and completely silent. If i had used my main rig with a dedicated GPU + faster CPU it would of probably been quite a bit more for doing the exact same thing.

I almost got into the APU road on my last upgrade, a couple months ago. Had AMD released one with a RDNA2 iGPU last year, I probably would had got one.

But only in a traditional setup, no Mini-PC. I wanted the flexibility of adding a discrete GPU down the road.

I was certain to get the best motherboard powered (sub 75W) AMD card (because Linux opensource drivers), but that would meant I would be stuck at the same performance level since 2014, when I got a very power hungry, factory overclocked R9 290. Since I wanted a bit more performance to play American/Euro Truck Simulator at a locked 60fps, I caved and got a RX6600. It normally consumes up to 100W (~15W decoding videos) in games and was a nice jump from what I had before, and even had AV1 decoding support, which is nice for me since I watch a lot of long YT videos.

it should be possible to undervolt that RX6600 down to around 75w i believe. You could almost run it off the pci-e only.

https://gitlab.com/corectrl/corectrl [External Link]

i think that is the tool to do it. there are video tutorials on how best to do it. Obviously your mileage will vary and do it at your own risk.

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Not sure if there was a Steam link in the OP. Maybe i missed it:

https://store.steampowered.com/app/1218210/Coromon/ [External Link]

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Quoting: M@GOidI decided to jump out of this game of having a top PC, to play AAA games at max settings a while ago. Now what I want is a efficient machine that runs cool on stock coolers.

Things started to became too repetitive (again) a decade ago, with most big-name games recycling the same ideas with more beautiful graphics. For example, I didn't finished the last 2 Tomb Riders. Felt like I was playing a DLC of the first game. Call of Duty fell off my radar after the first Black Ops. I'm not a competitive player (hate cheaters and annoying looser kids), so their emphasis on multiplayer did nothing for me.

Indie games at last try something new, since in a ocean of them, is do something different or die. And when they commit the same sin of recycling old gameplay like big studios do, I didn't need a powerful PC to play them nor do I need to pay full price plus a kidney in cash-grab schemes.

If I feel the itch to play AAA games, I still had a couple dozen from few years ago, that play very nice in my current "poor gamer" PC.

Pretty much the same here.
I have my PC spec'd good enough to play older AAA titles like Batman Arkham city, LOTR @ full settings 1440p (60hz is fine for me for these titles). The only issue is that even my Ryzen CPU (65w TDP + max undervolt) + Nvidia GPU is not efficient enough (add in some fans and primitive RGB). PC's for everything outside of gaming just aren't efficient enough, were talking 80w + just to stream video content, browse the web, basic image editing etc.. when a sub 10w mini pc can do this just fine. I have seen 95w when watching video content on my dual monitor setup and that's all im doing at the time.

One good thing about the last gen Ryzen though, is that they are quiet efficient at the lower end if you just want indie gaming. Something like a 5600g running integrated vega graphics is good enough. You can build a good all rounder for not much money. I hope there are equally efficient RDNA2 / 3 APU's in future.

I was testing my other machine with the 5600g recently and playing Stardew valley the entire PC was using less than 30W (21w at one point) and completely silent. If i had used my main rig with a dedicated GPU + faster CPU it would of probably been quite a bit more for doing the exact same thing.

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Quoting: eridanired123Dear Valve, kindly f u, release for latam already.

=/

that's really going to work. telling someone to go F themselves because they didn't give you the thing you wanted yet.

top.strategy.

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Quoting: M@GOid...

Looks like you got a lemon, since this is the first time I see someone saying those things about the Pro 2.

it probably is a lemon, but the quality control is not as high as the OG xbox controller imo. But then again it is cheaper. search for 'sticky buttons' on 8bitdo controllers. its the rubber that seems to be getting stuck or worn easily. They may of fixed this for the pro 3 though.

Or maybe you had a very high standard for noise? In my collection, the Xbox360 is the quietest. Is this the one you had before?

yes.

Personally, I like light triggers, since this is the norm nowadays and I cannot go back for the very hard ones in the XBox 360 and Logitech F710.

for racing games i love the OG PS3 triggers they feel more like a accelerator pedal. I suppose for fast FPS ( but why use a controller for that) the pro 2 is good for that instant response and so yea i could see how a xbox or ps3 would be too hard.
it's user preference.

Compatibility of gamepads nowadays is a hit or miss unfortunately, since some games do not implement Steam Input nor SDL2. Of all my controllers, only the XB360 and F710 had near perfect compatibility. The Dualshock4, Xbone and Steam Controller all had some (or multiple) games that refuse to recognize them.

yup. it still seems that the OG xbox controller is the best for compatibility. but i have had other replica xbox (original) controllers that were more compatible than the pro 2.

As for the M30, while I do like the Saturn gamepad format (I also have one and the Dreamcast one with a adapter!), I do prefer the Nintendo D-pad more. So in the end I think I will wait. I have too much gamepads already and the next one must check all the right points, otherwise I will stick with what I already have.

A good game pad is like gold dust. I always used to think they were all just about the same, but no its about getting a good one and then the one you get has to be made properly and supported on your platform of choice. why is everything so complicated these days (shouts at cloud like a grumpy old man)

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Quoting: tuubi

Quoting: Lofty

Quoting: M@GOidNot what I am looking for right now. Since I'm riding the indie wave, what I need is a decent D-Pad. And those that are under the analog simply wont do, no matter how good the actual pad is. Location location location. I have a Dual Shock 4, but the D-pad is unbearable for those of us that had tasted Nintendo's finest.

I was about to get a 8bitdo Pro 2, but after their recent releases, I have the gut feeling a "Pro 3" is in the works. So for now I'm using a original N64 controller with a USB adapter. Those things have great D-Pads that nobody used back then, so mine is like new, despite having been manufactured 25 years ago.

My advice is to not get the pro 2, i have this and the buttons stick and creak. the triggers are too easy to press (like almost no resistance) the dpad is meh. not only that it has not been very compatible for me at all even on xinput mode, some proton games will not work even when its supposed to be set as an xbox controller. Oddly only the switch emulation works well in these cases but then the buttons are mapped incorrectly. Ohh and i cannot get anything to recognise the back under side paddle buttons.. and .. yes there is more .. the rumble barely works on most games if at all. If you want a controller like an xbox controller get an xbox controller.

However its not all bad for 8bitdo if your after a retro/indie game wave where you only need a really good d-pad and a decent set of face buttons (no analogue or rumble) then the M30 model (that looks like a megadrive controller) is much better built and the d-pad is excellent.

I actually had to double-check which gamepad you're writing about, because it's so weird how much our experience differs. The Pro 2 has been hands down the best controller I've ever owned. The buttons are responsive and quiet. The triggers aren't very stiff but they provide just the right amount of resistance for fine control. The D-pad isn't too bad either. And compatibility in X-input mode (with Steam Input and outside of steam) has been excellent. Maybe we don't play the same games?

The paddles on the bottom don't work, that's true. But you can only set them to double as face buttons even on Windows apparently. Doesn't sound very useful. And about rumble, I'll take your word for that one. I've never seen the point of controller vibration so I always disable it.

so most of my points still stand. But the first ones might be that i have a poor quality unit, but that doesn't say much for quality control. there are a few threads out there about the varying quality of the pro 2, and 8bitdo hardware in general.

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Quoting: M@GOidNot what I am looking for right now. Since I'm riding the indie wave, what I need is a decent D-Pad. And those that are under the analog simply wont do, no matter how good the actual pad is. Location location location. I have a Dual Shock 4, but the D-pad is unbearable for those of us that had tasted Nintendo's finest.

I was about to get a 8bitdo Pro 2, but after their recent releases, I have the gut feeling a "Pro 3" is in the works. So for now I'm using a original N64 controller with a USB adapter. Those things have great D-Pads that nobody used back then, so mine is like new, despite having been manufactured 25 years ago.

My advice is to not get the pro 2, i have this and the buttons stick and creak. the triggers are too easy to press (like almost no resistance) the dpad is meh. not only that it has not been very compatible for me at all even on xinput mode, some proton games will not work even when its supposed to be set as an xbox controller. Oddly only the switch emulation works well in these cases but then the buttons are mapped incorrectly. Ohh and i cannot get anything to recognise the back under side paddle buttons.. and .. yes there is more .. the rumble barely works on most games if at all. If you want a controller like an xbox controller get an xbox controller.

However its not all bad for 8bitdo if your after a retro/indie game wave where you only need a really good d-pad and a decent set of face buttons (no analogue or rumble) then the M30 model (that looks like a megadrive controller) is much better built and the d-pad is excellent.

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Quoting: Klaas

Quoting: LoftyThat sounds too sexy.. im not searching for it just incase

It isn't. It's a multi use tool that only works well for removing grout between tiles. Everything else starts to vibrate so that it doesn't do anything.

The thing was invented as a saw to cut casts in a hospital without a chance to hurt anyone. You definitely cannot cut skin with it.

Now im slightly disappointed that it isn't sexy :happy:

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Quoting: KlaasFein Multimaster for vibration purposes.

That sounds too sexy.. im not searching for it just incase :tongue:

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Quoting: drlambI feel no pressure to upgrade from my 5800X3d/6900XT for 1440P/144, but as always, I'm tempted.

with the generational stagnation in performance, your probably good to run that system for another 5 -7 years before you absolutely reach a point where games need too many of the settings turning down to justify.

for context (although its not exactly how things work like for like) your card has 35TFLOPS and the Steamdeck, xboxone (which is still a huge target platform) have less than 3 TFLOPS (1.8 for the steamdeck) and they run games just good enough at 720p/1080p. Even an old 1660Ti has 5.5 Tlops and can play most every game on medium/high at 60fps. Sure if you want ultra settings pegged at a constant 144hz at 1440p then you probably will be looking at a yearly or bi-yearly update.. seems excessive but it's your money and energy wise cards are not getting lower TDP's. a 4090 is supposed to be 85TFLOPS (not sure if that's accurate but possibly) that said its a 450w card!

edit* just checking and the xbox series x and the PS5 are under 12TFLOPS (again not an exact marker for performance). But im not sure if sony or MS are going to put a 450w GPU plus competing CPU in a small form factor console. So with your hardware you are definitely covered for a loooong time.

Perhaps lower raytracing performance will be the issue with your hardware though.

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